Planes, Trains, Automobiles, Slug, and QOM Hunting with GFNY Champ Jill Patterson, — The GFNY Lourdes Tourmalet Experience

Race Day — Col du Tourmalet

Let me split this for you into two bits. I will go back and forth as my experience was different from my fellow travelers. With an admission of full-body fatigue that started prior to the GFNY NYC World Championship, my work life, personal life, and athletic life — they were all fighting for my attention. The athletic life is the easiest cut in any scenario where a choice needs to be made, and so my training was not where I would have wanted it to be to do the full course. On the train ride from Paris, I received a text from Uli.

“Dialed in for the medium”.

“Yes, until I am filled with false self-confidence during the group rides”. (I wouldn’t be).

Uli took the opportunity to remind me that the medium course in this case was the original full monty for the race. After hearing from many that a longer course was more desirable, the distance and climbing were doubled to include Col d’Aspin, and a lead-in to Col d’Aspin that was described by everyone I talked to as “brutal”. Coming into GFNY La Vaujany in 2021 I was much more fit, much more ready, and it still took me over 8:40 to finish it. The fact is, if you are not climbing like this all the time, there is very little that can get you ready for the mental and physical commitment you need to make to suffering. Given my time at GFNY Cannes (slower than I had hoped), and my cutoff at GFNY NYC World Championship, I had yet to ride a full 160km (100 miles) in 2022. Today would not be the right day to try that. Not with 4000 meters (12,000 feet) of climbing. It was a recipe for disaster, and so I resigned myself to the medium distance with the hope that I could make the best of it.

The last text from Uli simply read “you still get the Tourmalet and 2000+ meters of climbing”. This was no joke. 2000 meters is a lot on a great day in normal cycling terms, and I had not done that since March in Cannes.

Meanwhile, Up the Road

Meanwhile, up the road, Jill and Matthias started out with the front groups and were able to follow the wheels to the course split about 25km into the course. This is where the fun began. With the small and steady Col du Bidalet in the rear view, they started up one of the more challenging pieces of the road on the long course. Jill and Matthias ran into several steep walls and a whole lot of climbing for about 20km before hitting the Col d’Aspin, one of the signature climbs in the race. This is where the field “shattered” to use their words. Staying with Jill for as long as he could, Matthias made sure to let her know that as far as the women’s field was concerned, she was completely alone.

Matthias began his own race against the clock here as Jill commenced her run for the podium. Once again, taking nothing for granted she pressed herself through the most difficult parts and onto Col d’Aspin looking to recover prior to hitting the Tourmalet.

Meanwhile, Off the Back

Confident that I was dead last in the medium field, several riders passed me with wide smiles. For sure, I thought, they are thinking “well at least he is last now”. But somehow I was doing a little better than I thought as I approached the split and then on to where the more subtle climbing began in approaching the Col du Tourmalet. This was a scenic ride through and through, and knowing that I would slow down on the climb I did my best to keep a steady pace and apply a little time trialing know-how to the flat sections. I was passing some riders here and there, and so actually began to regain a little confidence. There was no pressure on, no clock to beat, no sweep vehicle to outrun. It was just me and the Tourmalet. Meeting several friends along the way, I stopped for a photo at the base to mark the occasion. I would do my best to not stop again until the summit, and I do mean the summit.

I was now on to the climb, and feeling great bout it. I knew that when my odometer read 51km I would be at the top, and halfway to the finish, the suffering behind me.

Meanwhile, Up the Road

And so alone, the Champ faced the sheep. Held off from descending the Col du Tourmalet as an entire flock of sheep decided to take their lunchtime constitutional. With no pressure from the field, Jill took her time getting past the sheep (with a fabulous video of the crossing) and began the descent. The storm was rolling in and the first bits of the Tourmalet descent was fairly technical. Getting down to a safe spot would ward off getting cold and allow her to keep her momentum into the finish, working with other racers she met along the way.

Meanwhile, Off the Back

To a champion such as Jill, the climb is the climb. Sometimes it’s a little harder, sometimes it’s a little easier, but it’s always what’s expected. Uphill, until it’s downhill. Back off when you need to, pound it out when you can.

I tried to take the “pound it out when you can” approach to the early kilometers on the Tourmalet. Fairly easy until about 13 kilometers to go, and it allowed me to make a little time, and maybe get a little ahead of myself in predicting how fast I could finish. At 18km and 8.5% on average, the East side of the Col du Tourmalet was as difficult a climb as I have ever experienced. Long enough, steep enough, technical enough. The elements played a role here as I got into the steady diet of 9–9.5%. At one point so frustrated by the grade continually being reported by the road signs as 9.5%, I finally thought “why do you have these damn signs, why not one big sign that says “hey Langsamer — it’s 9.5% the WHOLE WAY”. But it wasn’t. After 5km — 6km of 9% it finally began to relent.

But as it relented two distinct senses arrived. The beauty, and the approaching weather. While difficult, Col du Tourmalet near the top was also one of the most beautiful places I had ever seen. Pushing past the ski stations and hotels at Mongie, the raw beauty of the Pyrenees was suddenly on full display in cinemascope. I could see the GFNY banners at the summit. I wasn’t far. As experienced on past climbing adventures, seeing the top means you are closer than you think, even though it appears to be light-years away.

But with the wind in my face, it was hard to believe. I had to finally, reluctantly, put a foot down to zip the vest. The wind was aggressive and fighting me in my battle to the top, and then, as fast as it came, the wind was at my back via the next turn. Pushing me up the next segment, I realized it would be to my side next, and then my back, and then my side. With 500 meters to the summit, the names of pros scrawled and painted on the road provided some entertainment to keep my legs motivated. I was finally approaching the banners when I asked one of the team. “Ou es le sommet?” (Where is the summit — I was thinking this was maybe a little short). “Voila” he replied as he pointed. I stood up and took the last 80 meters to the summit. Stopping at the sign, I took a few photos. The sign was small, covered in stickers. I went back to the aid station for a Coke before descending.

Meanwhile, Up the Road

At this point because of the course differences, I didn’t realize, that Jill was actually behind me coming up the climb. As if watching a Christopher Nolan movie we were in parallel flashback scenes. But I didn’t realize it until I descended. As I descended, I got to the second or third turn hearing a moto with a siren. He passed me and waved a flag. The lead rider then passed me as if I were standing still. I expected more, and so hugged the right side of the road fearing that I would be interfering with the race. But the field, as reported earlier, was shattered. I finally reached a bend with parked cars, and thought about pulling off. Just then I looked up the mountain and didn’t see a large field coming, so I pressed on. Shortly thereafter, Cedric passed in the director’s car “Allez, Allez” — as he passed. Along with, I think, two more riders vying for top spots.

Jill was likely about to get started on the battle of the sheep.

Meanwhile, Off the Back

The clouds were getting darker, the roads wider, me faster. I was gaining confidence, and as I was soaked with welcome rain (now that I was at the foot of the descent), I tried to make up time on the long road back to Lourdes. With some twists and turns, some kickers, and some very anxious riders passing me for placement in the long course, I finally arrived at the finish line.

Meanwhile, Up the Road

About 15 minutes later, Jill rolled in. The undisputed champ of GFNY Lourdes Tourmalet she had earned another jersey and another top step. She came prepared, respected the field, did the work, and earned the finish. It was a joy to watch!

Epilogue

It was time to pack and leave France. On Monday morning the three of us had breakfast and discussed the race. It was time to make a fast exit to the fast train. On to Paris. It would be a long day of trains, finding hotels, and making arrangements to get to the airport the next day. The Fear of Missing Out growing with each step toward Paris was quickly eclipsed by the joy of knowing I would soon be sleeping in my own bed for the first time in roughly three weeks. Whatever GFNY La Vaujany might have held, it was better to be home. And soon, I hope, back to Florida, running and cycling, and next year, France again if all goes well, and who knows what else. By making it to GFNY Cannes, and combining it with GFNY Lourdes Tourmalet, I filled my French soul for now and created a custom GFNY French Double.

Postscript

Worth noting that Jill managed a clean sweep of both of her French races. We are so proud of you champ! Thanks for taking me along for the ride!

And to all on the amazing GFNY France team — MERCI BEAUCOUP!

Getting to KM 0
I flew down from Toronto to Newark on Saturday May 14th in time to complete registration and replace a front tyre, with help from the crew at Hudson Bikes, that somehow had a bulge after inflating it following the flight.

On race morning, I rode the 7kms to the start on the George Washington bridge from my hotel in Edgewater New Jersey to make the 6:15am cut-off time to get into the start corrals. Entering the lower level of the bridge from the NJ side means riding all the way to the back of the corrals and then crossing over into the NJ bound lanes and then making my way up to my corral.

I thought I was in decent shape with a start my number of 488 and over 6000 riders signed up to take part figuring that I would be in the second corral of 250-499. There have been a few changes since the 2013 edition (when I lost took part) including the start corrals, my corral was 400-599 and I was right at the back.

It was foggy and felt cooler than 15 Celsius which must be attributed to being on the bridge. I now had to wait 45 minutes for the start. It took me about 20 minutes before I started shivering as I had taken off my jacket at the bag drop before riding onto the bridge. Many clever participants had brought garbage bags or emergency blankets to wrap themselves in to help keep their core temperatures from dropping too low. The bonus part of being at the back of my corral was having some space in front of the corral behind me which I took advantage of by riding around in small circles very slowly working on balance which helped to warm me back up.

The race started on time at 7am. It took about a minute from the start for our groups wheels to start rolling which is an agonizing long time as the fastest riders sped off unimpeded in front of me. The road was nice and wide leaving the bridge with some gradual ascending which provided for ample opportunity to weave through riders who started in front of me but were unable to keep pace.

The Start to the Alpine Hill
Getting up to the lead group took one heck of a concerted effort which lasted 27 minutes and covered 17 kilometers from the GW bridge all the way until mid-way up the Alpine Hill climb. During that effort I registered in the top ten of four Strava KOM segments. I don’t think that anyone who started behind me was able to make it into the lead group but who knows.

During the 7-minute Alpine Hill climb I moved through some riders getting distance from the lead group and crested the top in a group of about 60 riders. I was thinking that I would chill at the back for a while to recover. I would then save my next effort for the Bear Mtn climb that started at around km 65 and was the decisive point of the race when I took part back in 2013.

Alpine Hill to Bear Mountain
Three riders rode off the front at this point just after the top of the Alpine Hill and I was in no position to respond so I waited in the pack and followed wheels. To my dismay and surprise nothing happened, no one chased, and our group swelled to 100 as riders caught back. With a slower pace conversation amongst the riders always starts up as no one is gasping for breath. It was cool to hear that the two languages being spoken in the peloton were Spanish and Italian. I tried to make conversation with a couple of Italian riders around me in English but only got confused look in response. I clearly need to learn some Italian and Spanish.
The three riders in the break built up a five minute lead by the time they reached Bear Mountain.

A few minutes later another three riders rolled off the front one by one. It was clear this main group was unwilling to chase or keep a decent tempo. This format of Fondo riding often favours the brave as team tactics are diminished. I was now rested enough to respond and decided to ditch my initial strategy of waiting (no surprise to most who know me). I moved up on the right-side shoulder of the road and jumped across to the next rider who attacked. I then kept up a high-pace and took over the lead which is a necessary move in making a break work.

The next 20 minutes were extremely active with riders lined out single file and pedaling with purpose. The three escapees in group two were caught by a few of us working hard together. A new group of eight chasers broke free which I was a part of. Despite our best efforts we were caught by a now motivated peloton. Riders continued to get dropped and rejoin as we rode in a herky-jerky manner all the way up to the base of the Bear Mountain climb.

My read of the situation from the top of the Alpine climb to the base of Bear Mountain was not great. I underestimated the quality of the riders in the lead peloton of 100. I paid for this misread by spending a lot of energy when I could have waited and then followed wheels, but really that is not how I like to ride. When a race is up the road and riders look at one another I would rather anti-up even if it means finishing further back in the end.

Bear Mountain and back to Fort Lee
I did what I could to hold onto the lead group as the pace bit into most of us. Three riders flexed their climbing legs and gapped the rest. The best of the rest of us pushed the pace in hopes of keeping pace. I did not have what it took to stay with them and fell out the back about half-way up. Right before I was dropped all I was hoping for was some other riders to crack as well so I could have group to work with. As it turned out I was probably the last rider who got dropped from the lead group.

I settled into a pace I could maintain for the second half of the climb losing a minute to the lead group of twenty riders and five minutes to the three riders from the original break. The riders descending come back down the same road, so it was a great opportunity to assess the gaps on the road. I was alone but not for long as three other riders crested just after me and we joined forces at the bottom of the decent.

Our group of four was made up of two Columbians and one guy wearing a GFNY Columbia jersey and myself. One guy in our group was steady and good especially on any climb (Julian Mejia Calderon), the second guy took good pulls especially when there was a carrot of another rider coming back to us from the group of 20. The third guy only went to the front on descents and seemed fearless with good knowledge of the roads.

In situations like this I try to model myself after how I witnessed former pro Canadian cyclist Svein Tuft ride at the Canadian Nationals; do what you can when you can, don’t ask for help, don’t game anything as you are chasing.
We reeled in and then dropped several riders over the next hour which was great for our morale.

We then spotted a small group of riders up in the distance which was really one group of two way up the road and another group of three 500 meters ahead. The two Columbians and I took some hard turns as we steadily reduced the gap to the three riders. Just before we caught them some words were spoken in Spanish and the Columbian climber from our group (Calderon) pushed the pace to make the catch and then pushed on past the group. I took over right where he left off and gapped the group.

I kept a high tempo which was needed to catch the two riders up ahead Daniel Hernandez and Nick Wheatley-Schaller. This effort took a lot out of me as these guys were moving at a decent clip. The three of us then pushed on together until the top of the Alpine hill where Hernandez proceeded to descend with skill and speed which distanced Wheatley-Schaller.

Over the next 12kms Hernandez and I pushed the pace. We were able to catch two more riders as we got off the parkway and then started the 1.5km climb to the finish. Daniel took the lead on the steepest first part and then Medici Mathias attacked with 500 meters to go and again with 150 meters remaining. I was able to sprint past Mathias but so was Daniel who around me and across the line just ahead of me to take 12th place overall.

Post-Race
Daniel and I become fast friends after the finish. When our names were mentioned by the announcer Daniel turned to me and told me that he knew me from Zwift where we had competed many times. He explained that many of the people he rides with thought I wasn’t real but here I was. He captured this moment on a camera that he had in his pocket. Daniel called over a bunch of his Columbian friends including Calderon once they had crossed the line to share the moment with. It was nice to be able to connect with cyclists from so far away after spending some much time riding virtually as avatars. Connect with the riders I had worked with during the race for those brief moments at the finish line was the highlight of my trip.

I rode back to hotel so as not to miss my late check out and grab a shower. I then rode back to the post-race celebrations in Fort Lee. By the time I got back their thousands of participants had finished. They were filling up the expo area enjoying the now sunny weather and recounting their experiences with friend about the amazing event. The line to get post-race food was an hour long but no-one seemed to mind too much as all were awaiting the awards ceremony and exhausted from the early rise and intense effort. I ran out of time and had to leave before getting to the front of the food line or awards to catch my flight. Before I left, I made sure to tracking down half of the mastermind team behind this event Uli Fluhme.

I found Uli amongst all the people but away from the crowds texting with his team. I wanted to make sure to thank him for helping to keep road cycling alive here in North America. What the GFNY has developed into in 2022 is remarkable especially when considering a two-tear hiatus due to COVID-19. The location of registration, the exposition, and the finish line are a big improvement from what was in place back in 2013. The signage on the course was clearly marked which was no small feat with so many twists and turns. I was able to focus on the race without ever having to worry about the traffic which is also an amazing feat so close to New York City with over 162 kilometers of roads and hundreds of intersections. The level of competition is so much higher this year which is demonstrated by how many Strava KOMs were registered. The everyday heroes of the cycling world came together at the GFNY on May 15th, and I got to be part of it. Thank you Uli.

I am already thinking about how to improve my 13th place next time and to be certain it starts with getting myself into the front start corral. This requires a commitment from me to take part and do well in one of the qualifier events which I plan to do in Rockford Illinois on August 6th.

Planes, Trains, Automobiles, Slug, and QOM Hunting with GFNY Champ Jill Patterson, — The GFNY Lourdes Tourmalet Experience

Friday — Col du Soulor

We were tapering down over the course of the week. It was Luz Ardiden, an 80km ride, followed by Col du Soulor a 60km or so ride with a little less climbing, and then it would be the mighty Hautacam on Saturday. With a little more confidence, (at least for me), we rolled over to Palais de Congres where the race would start and finish on Sunday. This was also, naturally, the site of the GFNY expo which would likely be open by the time we returned from the climb. Not as far away as Luz Ardiden, the approach to the Col du Soulor would start directly after the green path, and follow through several towns before getting to the difficult bit.

One of our GFNY Ambassadors, Alejandro joined us on this ride (and the next). A cyclist in great form, and with a big smile, he was a very welcome addition to the group.

My first Friday mistake — as we wound our way through the hills of the town at the foot of the climb, was trying to hold the wheels of the other three as we made our way up. Really I was trying tIt o make sure I wouldn’t get lost, and even though I had the route, wanted to make sure that they would be able to find me if they needed me. It was utter folly as they sped up past the more steep bits, and onto what would become a steady climb through a more populated area than we might be used to seeing at this stage in a climb. At 16km and a 4.5% average — this was deceptive. The first 8km of the climb were pretty easy (except for the short steep bits at the beginning), and some even downhillish (but you always pay for that). With about 8km to go, it really kicked up. There were small steep kicks, steady grades, switchbacks, and amazing scenery. With each push of the pedals, I was another stroke closer to the Sun and it was making its presence known. My bike was getting lighter and lighter, as I drained both bidons on the climb.

Before getting to the steeper, more difficult part of the climb, I texted Matthias my location so that he could see where I was the whole time. With about 5km to the top, I stopped and texted again. “5KM to the top, please feel free to descend and stop for a coffee, and I will meet you when I descend”.

Matthias texted back right away. “There is a cafe at the top”. Something to look forward to. The group seemed to have taken it a little slower and weren’t waiting as long for me on this climb, but for whatever reason, I just couldn’t break that 8km per hour average barrier on the steep sections. This would persist in the race on Sunday and has led to some introspection about my training regimen that I am looking forward to proving myself right on.

A relief for anyone that doesn’t have their climbing legs — the Col d’Abisque was closed. Seeing that “Ferme” sign was a helpful portent to knowing the group wouldn’t want to press up further. On my arrival, we met some sheep, took more photos, and dumped two Cokes into my now empty bidons for the ride home. It was at this point, I was considering saying “I think I’ll skip Hautacam tomorrow”, when Jill told me — “we are going to skip climbing tomorrow, it could be too much before the race.”

No argument here.

I hate descending. I don’t hide it. But this descent was the most fun I have EVER had descending. Not as technical as the day before, it offered a wide road and a lot of chances to accelerate, pedal my way, stay warm, and stay close to the group on the way down. It made the ride back on the green path that much more pleasant.

Needless to say, upon our arrival, more souvenirs were revealed for Jill. A tie for the top slot on the QOM.

The VIP reception would be this evening, a chance to connect with the great GFNY France team, and generally just hang out and enjoy the atmosphere of this great hotel.

Saturday — The Slug Hunter

Our Saturday ride, just the four of us out on the green path and back was one of the reasons that I started cycling. A chance to do something truly enjoyable, with people that are truly enjoyable. A light atmosphere, for taking photos, doing intervals, spinning out the two days of climbing before, and enjoying the sunshine. There would be time later for bike prep, pinning on jersey numbers, and all the nattering nervousness of the night before the race. But first — SLUGS! In starting an argument with Matthias about whether there are black bears in the Ardennes (I was wrong, there are not), Jill had decided to do a few fast intervals in search of her favorite animal as a kid. Slugs. I had no idea how she would find slugs along a bike path at 28km per hour, but somehow, as we caught up to her, she was standing on the side of the road, photographing — yes you guessed it — a slug. Prior to this specimen, she had spotted a perfect slug in motion, a slime trail, moving across the green path. But tragedy struck before she could photograph it and another cyclist went right over it. And so the great Pyrenean slug hunt of 2022 was now complete. Who knew. Slugs. But such was the light mood and humor of the ride, a perfect way to unwind before what would be a difficult day on Sunday.

END PART THREE

Planes, Trains, Automobiles, Slug, and QOM Hunting with GFNY Champ Jill Patterson, — The GFNY Lourdes Tourmalet Experience

Thursday — Luz Ardiden

The evening came and went like a thief. I found some sleep and was ready to tackle what was ahead. Arriving at Bikes&Py just after they opened, their mechanic was able to reseat my shift cable within ten minutes. We spoke with the owner as we browsed through this beautiful shop, grabbed a few CO2 cartridges, and some chain lube, and were off back to the hotel to meet Matthias for the ride out.

My teammate and friend Matthias Van Aiken, (who also had a late arrival and late-night), was here to work in support of the race, lead the rides, and also do the race on Sunday. To frame this setup, I was now cycling out to a major HC (beyond category) climb, with two elite cyclists who have had top 20 and podium finishes around the Globe, including GFNY races. I would be able to watch and learn for a time, but most importantly, get some feedback from each of them about the climbs, the race, the course, and everything cycling. An insider’s perspective is that even in traveling to as many races as I do, is not always right there for the taking as it now was.

Taking the green path out along the Ousse River, and out to the main artery that connected Lourdes to most of the area climbs, was a fast and satisfying way to wake up the legs, and get back in form. I had not been on a bicycle now in at least 10 days, and so I was in a minor state of panic about my ability to rise to the occasion. But it felt good. There was sunshine, conversation, and everything great about cycling until we finally arrived at the foot of Luz Ardiden.

Without getting into too much detail the argument at the foot of this climb was not about whether or not to do the climb, but which route to take. Jill had heard from friends of hers, that the best parts of the iconic climbs were always to NOT follow the routes that Le Tour de France follows, but rather the other sides. Having seen a few of the routes taken by Le Tour, and some of the alternatives, my own view is that it depends on the climb. But in this case, I was game. To give you a good idea of the skill level I was dealing with, Jill’s idea of a souvenir from a new country she is visiting is to score KOM/QOM for a particular climb. Before we even set out, Jill was fully in tune with what she needed to do to bring home the bacon on the first climb but had some doubts about whether she could do it.

Moving across the pond to Europe provides a very different level of competition than we see in North America. Jill was not allowing herself to be lulled into a false sense of complacency about her own skills, but rather going into each effort with respect for the European climbers that had come before her. She would take this approach all the way into race day — taking nothing for granted. This, friends is how a professional prepares.

Finally, we agreed, that we would take the road less traveled. Jill was grinning from ear to ear as she exclaimed “Oooh it’s a steep start”.
“How steep?” I asked.

“Very!” She replied.

She and Matthias were quickly away and fading out of sight. I was mumbling to myself as I started to granny gear it up. Mumbling to myself. “Very!’ Thanks Champ — really helpful”. As my contemplation of the grade evolved, I was passed by a local about my age shredding up the climb on a flat bar e-bike. It was here that I started to count the dollars, shoes, helmet, bad-ass carbon frame, groupset, blah, blah, blah — all to be completely housed by an e-bike, as the sound of the voices and sights of Jill and Matthias faded away.

We were on the back side of Luz Ardiden, and like many other climbs, would meet the main road to the summit somewhere around 5 or 6 kilometers away from the top. Because we went the “non-Le-Tour” route to the summit finish, I don’t have official stats, other than roughly a 7.5% average grade, over about 14km. Making a right turn from out of the wilderness with about 4–5km to go, onto one of the beautiful ribbon-like roads I came to love so much in the Pyrenees, the climb began to wind and switch back in a beautiful way. Cyclists with huge grins on their faces descended most riki-tik from the summit one by one, and sometimes in pairs. About 1km from the top, I had to take a guess and make my way left or right. I chose left, unaware that at the summit Matthias and Jill were watching me choose and willing me to go left. Stopping only to answer a text from Matthias, I let him know I was not far to go.

Meanwhile, at the summit, the wind was kicking, and the temperatures were about 10 degrees lower (Fahrenheit) than where we started. As I hit the summit, we were able to take some photos and quickly make our way out. The great news about the ride was that it was mostly downhill and flat from here. In fact, that was a theme throughout the week. When you got to the top of the mountain, you were usually halfway home. (The fast half).

Jill was dubious about her time up the mountain and as of yet unsure if she would grab the trophy for the climb. So we made our way down, and headed back to Lourdes, for stretching, lunch, and coffee. Upon entering the bike room at the hotel, all of Jill’s data reconnected, and there it was. QOM for Luz Ardiden via Viscos. BAM — souvenir achieved for the champ, everything else would be gravy.

And Speaking of Gravy

Tooling around Lourdes the night before on foot, in search of a place to sit, practice my French, and order something great for dinner, I was, as I often am, hampered by my own lack of confidence. While I work at understanding and speaking French, I know what to say, when to say it, but as soon as I am presented with a person and they speak rapidly, fluidly, my confidence heads out the back door and often leaves me stammering like an idiot trying too hard to fit in. But such is a city of miracles. The waiter at the brasserie across from the hotel deduced from my French that I was American, and introduced himself as being from Portugal, the same area that was home to GFNY Portugal in 2018. We had a lot to talk about.

And as he introduced me around to his colleagues, he pointed out the sign that made me feel right at home. The 4/5 Express train sign read “Uptown and the Bronx”. Dinner was going to taste good. And as the week evolved, my confidence slowly returned. I would continue to use this brasserie as a comfortable place to sit and enjoy as I did in having coffee with Matthias that afternoon after Luz Ardiden. Breaking from my habit of a black coffee my friend from the night before presented me with a noisette. A foamy, milky latte with espresso in a larger cup. I never drink coffee with milk, but I was compelled to have two.

END PART TWO